Food Plot Questions Answered: Soil Health, Planting Timing & Weed Management

0:00 All right, thanks everybody. Thanks for joining. We've got guys over 85 people joining us live here. So that's very exciting. Everybody loves a chance to get free information from Dr. Woods, right Grant?

0:13 It's great to have you here as part of just this opportunity for people to ask their questions. I know you mentioned that it's prime food plot season. So Grant, why don't you talk just a little bit about where you see the season at, talk a little bit about what you see going on at the proving grounds to just kind of get us started.

0:35 Yeah, thanks Keith and Sophie for letting me join you all. Let's kind of go from south to north and offline. I was just sharing with Keith and Sophie. I was in southern Louisiana last week helping landowners, and there were thousands of acres of corn about this tall that was black. They had planted and it'd come a cold spell and froze it off. So I want to remind everyone that just because you've got a couple of warm days doesn't mean it's time to plant. Make sure and look at that extended forecast.

1:06 And just as important as a forecast, if you're there and you're tuned in, you know where your weather's coming from. I always look at Colorado, western Oklahoma and see what's happening out there. Keith just shared, I think this week it's supposed to, or last week something, it was in the 90s and then there was a 7 degree wind chill or something. So don't get excited. But south to north, probably getting close to planting. You know, mid-north Florida already planted. South Alabama, Dykes family, you may be on here, been working with them. They're still rye's not in the dough stage yet. They're going to plant green. They're going to drill through there and crimp and they're not there yet. I've held them off maybe 3 weeks or more. So if you're planting green, make sure and check those seeds. If you're disking, you want really warm soil temperature. There's a lot of websites that will show that soil temperature.

1:58 And I think Keith and I would agree, as important of indicators as anything is that soil temperature. Soil temperature kind of rises slowly and falls slowly. It's not faked out by day-to-day changes of the weather. Would you agree with that Keith?

2:12 Yeah, that's right. And you want to make sure you're checking that soil temperature. You can't just go out with like the little thermal thermometer thing and check the soil surface because that is going to vary quite widely. You need to be checking it 2 to 3 inches deep because that's the indication of kind of what that long-term soil is. And if you look things up like on GreenCast, and there's lots of good places to check nowadays, they're going to be telling you what it is at probably 2 to 4 inches, and that's a much safer one because otherwise the surface could be 70 one day and 40 the next depending on what the crazy weather does. Yeah, just like touching your car surface right at noon versus midnight. And then their point, kind of want to check that about 9:00 a.m. The earth cools all night long and the sun's energy is just starting to warm it up about 9:00. It could be different at 4:00 in the afternoon if you have a hot day. So ideally 9:00 a.m., 2 to 3 inches deep is a really good indicator. A lot of state agencies, state ag departments have specific county by county, net state too. So a lot of places on the web you can get that data.

3:20 All right, well, let's jump in here. We have questions coming in from everywhere. We've got a number that were submitted ahead of time that I've got over here in a sheet. But we're going to start with the webinar chat here. We're going to reward the people that are on here live. And so I'm going to kind of go through and, you know, if we can try to group a few together here. But we've got Dan asking, I just lost here. Dan is asking how long is too long to roller crimp after planting summer release? And I'm assuming maybe he, well, I'm not sure. Do you think he means to crimp your rye after planting that summer release?

3:56 Probably so. And I would say Dan, I don't like from my experience. I've made boo-boos too early and too late. But I'm okay with the plants getting up an inch or two. But I don't like whatever species you're talking about making that second or third set of leaves because then the tractor tires even more and the crimper could pinch and terminate those crops. So coming out of ground a little bit, green fuzz an inch tall, almost no damage. Is that what you've seen also Keith?

4:22 Yeah, I mean this is a fairly common practice in organic soybean growers. You know, they'll plant their soybeans while the rye is still in the boot stage and then they're crimping that rye, you know, as the soybeans have emerged. And once you get in, in fact we just had Dr. Erin Silva on a webinar last week and she really knows a lot about this and she had some really good data. The bigger it gets, the more damage you're going to have. Now that's mostly with the broadleaves, you know, like soybeans. They're much more sensitive than your grasses, you know, so the Milo and the other things in that summer release. Astragalus I don't think is going to be a problem. It's a little slower getting going. It's going to be your bigger thing, you know, the beans and the peas and maybe the sunflowers. So yeah, I would say you don't want that stuff to be getting much over an inch tall or you'll start taking some damage. But remember you're going to drill and it's going to take 7 days or so for it to pop out of ground. So you've got a little cushion built in already.

5:29 And just to tie back, those soil temperatures might stay a little cooler under 4 ft tall plus cereal rye. So you know, in that case if you're planting green or you're going to use a crimper, you want to wait just a little bit longer than maybe your neighbors that are disking because your soil's going to stay a little cooler.

5:47 Yeah, and maybe Grant, let's because I know there're going to be a lot of questions around weed control, termination, roller crimping. So let's just address that right now. What do you look for in your fall release, you know, the overwintering things, particularly the cereal rye. What is the gauge that you look at for when you want to go out and roller crimp?

6:08 Yeah, I've learned through time just to wait later and later. I want as much biomass out there as I'm counting on that cereal rye to be a big part of my weed suppression. So I want to end up with a good mat 4 to 6 inches thick. And I'm planning when those seed pods in the rye or maybe I've got blends it lower something with it, they're formed but they're not hard yet. They're still moist called the dough stage. But they're fully formed or they're just starting to form and I peel the seed husk back. I can clearly see a fully formed seed.

6:41 And I'll plant right then or maybe a few days before that stage. And again folks, this isn't day-to-day dependent. There's a week or two or three window depending on where you are and what's going on. It's not like I got to plant today. So there's a window in there. But you're watching it. You don't want to wait till those seeds are fully formed and mature and harder viable or you're going to get a lot of volunteer seeds coming up or that's possible. So I tend to wait on the longer side for more biomass production, more weed suppression and those roots are pumping carbon into the soil. I'm improving that soil every day. Those roots are getting bigger and going deeper and that's my tillage, right? They're just feeding microbes and earthworms.

7:22 I think there's a lot of advantages to waiting later unless you're in a severe drought. Those plants are taking some moisture out of ground and they're keeping it from evaporating. Of all the tradeoffs I've seen in the years I've done this, waiting later is better than jumping the gun.

7:38 Yeah, and certainly like Grant said, there's a window of opportunity. So you don't want to go any earlier than anthesis, which is when that head is formed and it's shedding pollen. That would be the absolute earliest you'd want to go. And then you know, like you know, that dough stage is probably the latest you'd want to go. So that's kind of your window is in there. But one thing you can do is just walk out in the field, grab some of that and just kind of go like this. And if you kind of hear it popping and cracking, well, then you know that roller crimper is probably going to be doing a pretty decent, pretty effective job.

8:11 And here's another trick. I don't know Grant if you've ever tried this. I have had some of our row crop farmers tell me that they have a much better success of roller crimping when they do it at night or very early in the morning because and if you think about it, that kind of makes sense because if you do it out in the heat of the day, you know, that there's far less moisture in the stems of those plants. They're not nearly as supple and that roller crimper can kind of tend to bounce off a little bit more. But at night or in the evening or first thing in the morning, you know, they're they've kind of recovered some of that moisture and now they're they're a little more susceptible to being crimped and being bent. So you know, that might be a fun little experiment for you to try.

8:59 I know some of you guys work during the day. So maybe you're roller crimping at night anyway. But but that just you know, if you if you've had troubles roller crimping, that might be something to at least consider. But always go out there and just just see how much how susceptible those stems are to bending and cracking and and getting a crimp on that and not just bouncing back. Yeah, exactly. And I would say this, if you wait a little later, I've almost never seen it be an issue. The issues I've seen are when it stands back up, you know, get good termination is too early.

9:33 Yeah. Okay, Keith is asking. He says his pH is currently 5.7 and he's having troubles getting summer release to grow. What would be your recommendations? I'm not I don't think a pH of 5.7 would keep it from germinating and growing. It may not express its full potential. I'm wondering if there's a utilization cage in those fields and how much browse pressure there is.

9:59 I can't tell you how many people have maybe, you know, been a little mad at me or, you know, Grant, you let us down a bad trail. And I begged them, 'I go put a utilization cage in your plot.' And all of a sudden, it's a foot tall inside and lip high outside. So, I think Keith and I both would tell everyone out there, one of the best and least expensive tools you can use as a food plot manager is a utilization cage.

10:25 Yeah, you you sent that picture over to Colton and I and you know, this this whole food plot just got down to almost nothing. That stuff in that cage was what, 5 feet tall? It was incredible. Up to the top of the wire, yeah. It was like and that guy's got a lot of deer out there. Yeah, I would agree. I'm so thankful I had a cage up or they'd been blaming me like, 'Grant Woods, that's not working at all, man.' So, I'm so thankful I had a cage up. I would agree. We we farm thousands of acres that has a pH below six and and we can grow good crops on that. I don't Yeah, I don't I would agree. I don't think the pH is maybe not ideal, you know, six and a half would be better, but 5.7 is not going to keep these things from growing. There's something else going on. It could be over browsing. Pull soil test. Maybe you're deficient in some other nutrients out there. But I I don't think it's a pH issue. Now, if it was 5.2, maybe, but I say we farm a lot of ground that's, you know, between, you know, 5.6 and and six and and I don't really think that would be much of an issue there.

11:30 Let's see. That release system. I'm sorry, Keith. That pH will naturally improve. I mean, plants are the greatest thing for soil health, right? So, if you're planting diverse blends and not disking, you're going to improve that pH over time. Yeah.

11:46 Gary's got a question here about fertility. He's asking specifically about how do you fertilize corn and soybeans if you're using a no-till drill. But I I think this is an interesting topic. We can talk about how do you fertilize, should you fertilize whether your food plots, whether it's corn beans or, you know, a diverse mix. What What's What's your thoughts on fertility Grant? Yeah, I think it kind of depends on where you're starting. You know, there's

12:12 There's places that, you know, you're in the bottom of the bucket. Maybe that land's been really abused by past practices. You may need to add some fertility to get a jump-start and get them up biomass going to get the system going.

12:26 I tend to think us food plotters are bad, you know, one's good, five's bound to be better. So some people may be putting more fertilizer out that's necessary. And I get with Keith, a soil test, a basic soil test is not the end-all end-all, but that's a really good starting point to kind of see what you have to work with there.

12:45 And as far as corn and soybeans, I would never run fertilizer through a no-till drill or anything like that because synthetic fertilizer is extremely corrosive. So you would broadcast that ahead of time or hire a local ag company to apply that fertilizer for you.

13:03 But I think that might be a great segue, Keith. Sometimes those fertility issues can be handled with microbes and maybe you want to address that because that's probably one of the hottest things in all of ag and food plot farmers need to get on that bandwagon. Yeah. Well, first of all, 100% agree. I've planted tens of thousands of acres with no-till drills over the years and the best way to rust them out, to ruin them, to have to rebuild them before their time is to have fertilizer leaking all over it. And I mean, it's great to be able to do that. It's convenient, but man, is that stuff corrosive.

13:40 And so I would agree, you know, spread that out ahead of time. That way your drill can kind of push it into the soil a little bit. Ideally, you want to put that out there right before a rain because then that will deserve dissolve that nitrogen and get it into the soil. Otherwise, if it lays there and it's hot and it's not covered up, you will lose a bunch of that nitrogen to volatilization. And so timing is pretty important when it comes to nitrogen application. But, you know, like Grant said, you know, we see more and more people starting to reduce the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus that they're using when they have their soil biology really working well for them.

14:21 Now, if if if you're just coming out, your system is tired, it's beat up, it's worn out, it's just been abused for years and years, yeah, you're probably going to have to give it a little help to get it going. But once you kind of get into the system, you get the soil really cooking. And one of the best indicators of that is are you seeing earthworms? Now, if it's hot and it's dry, you're not going to see your earthworms even if you have them. They're going to be down deep. They're smart. But if it's cool and the soil is moist and you go out there and dig and you're not seeing earthworms, you don't have a lot of biological activity going yet. And so be patient. Wait.

15:00 Maybe use some fertility, but don't you know, the worst thing you can do is to put all your fertility for the whole year out there all at once because that just that overloads the system. It crashes any biological processes that you had started because plants are smart. They're not going to encourage biological growth because that takes their resources, their carbon resources, if you dump piles of free fertilizer out there for them. So do little amounts. I know it's more work. I know it's more of a hassle. But small amounts and then only do it if if it looks like it needs it. You know, if if the plants are showing good color, you probably have sufficient nitrogen.

15:40 And so you know, you want to kind of do that as it goes. And so as far as the microbes go, you know, all this cover crop seed that we send out has a seed treatment of a couple of different types of biology. It's got rhizobia, which is the bacteria that will fix nitrogen on the roots of the legumes. So the soybeans, the cowpeas, the aeschynomene, all those things will have the proper inoculants on it. But it also has what we call free-living nitrogen fixers, which is things like azospirillum and azotobacter. And those things are taking, you know, you got 30,000 tons of nitrogen above every acre of crop ground. All you got to do is have the right bugs to make it available for your plants.

16:26 And really, for most food plots, you don't need more than probably 50 lb of nitrogen because you're not hauling away grain crops, you know, like if you were raising corn or soybeans. So it doesn't take a lot. So don't overdo it or you'll never build biology if you're over fertilizing. And so you know, little bits at a time. And then there's there's other. There's lots of other good biological products out on the market that you can, you know, if you have the ability to spray it on, you know, ideally when your crop is, you know, actively vegetatively growing.

17:00 If you can spray that on. And if you got I would guess almost everybody on this call probably has someone in their neighborhood now spraying stuff with a drone. Drones are amazing. Find that drone guy because they're going to be willing to come out and do small patches because they can. It's not that hard. And find those guys and and, you know, find a good biological product. We have some. I know Grant has some. Some other ones he can recommend. There's lots of good products out there. And then have the drone guy spray those small plots for you if you don't, you know, want to go out there and do it with a hand sprayer.

17:35 Keith, I'm glad you brought that up. We use a local guy, Dakota Monarch Drone Solutions. I'm in the mountains, hills. I don't have very big plots. And Dakota can pretty much sit in one or two places on my place and just pop around all the places, drop down. And here's the real thing, folks. On my rough land, it takes us about five days with a 200-gallon sprayer to get to each plot, come back and fill it up, you know, all that stuff. Dakota's in and out here in about 4 hours. And does a better job, right? He's not texting and driving off to the side like I do. I mean, total coverage, perfect coverage. So the drone, the ag drones are tremendous tool that I hope food plot fighters will take in. And very at least the contractors I've used, very

18:20 Inexpensive compared to me taking a week of my time and all the diesel fuel and wear and tear on the tractor. They're great options. And there's going to be a lot more people doing it because it's affordable to get into. It's a really nice little business. And let's face it, we've got a whole bunch of kids out there that have been training their whole lives to do this because they've been playing video games all their life. So they're good, they've been training all their life for this.

18:50 Grant Dale is asking a great question here. He says, 'What can I do if I don't have a no-till drill?' How can you plant it? I know you've got a number of good videos. What options do you have to get that stuff seeded if he doesn't have a no-till drill?

19:03 Yeah, Dale, at here at my place, I've got a bunch of places, you know, on the backside of a mountain we wouldn't dare drag a drill to. So we broadcast. You just over the shoulder broadcaster's been working great for years. I like to do that into the standing crop. And I think one of the keys to success is do that if you live on the property close by right before at least a half inch of rain. Don't just put out dry and let it sit there for a week. You'll be amazed how many birds and seeds, birds and rodents remove and some of the seed will desiccate and die.

19:37 That works well. You can literally take a lawnmower and then mow your crop down on top where you broadcast the seed or a weed eater or send an intern out like I do. And I'm teasing, folks. And knock that down. I even have a foot crimper that's like a 2x6 and a couple of angle irons on the bottom and I'll spread my seed and then step on that all the way across the food plots. Good training for elk hunting. But there's a lot of ways to do that.

20:03 You can disc, folks. I'm big into no-till but disc is still an option. It's not the best for soil health. We're not just going to hide that but some people disc. And if you're discing, man, you want to plant a really good blend. You need to recover that soil health as quick as you can and blends are always better for a multitude of reasons than a single species. Our single species, some other company's single species, it's not any single species. Blends working together produce more tons and are better for the soil.

20:35 Yeah, that's right. And you know, a disc or any type of tillage, it's a tool. You know, herbicides are a tool, tillage is a tool and so you know, you got to use the tools in your toolbox. But just know that every time you use a tool, you're doing some kind of damage and it's costing you both time and money. So just use them when appropriate and use them when needed. I have seen people do it pretty successfully too. If you have an ATV, if you got like a tine harrow of some kind, you know, with some sharp tines, you know, get that thing out there, load it up with some weight so that when you drag it through there, you're basically kind of cutting some grooves out there. That gives a place for the seed to fall into and then go out and broadcast your seed and then come back with, even if you just pull an old bed spring or a railroad tie around or you just need something to kind of smooth that back out. It's going to be way better than just broadcasting because if you've got thatch from last year, you know, that seed needs to be on the soil. It can't be setting up on top of a bunch of residue or thatch.

21:41 You know, use your ingenuity, figure out what tools you have available but figure out you got to get that seed in contact with the soil. And the drier you are, the more important that it is to get that seed in the ground. Now, you know, if you planted it and you knew you were going to get you know, 2 inches of nice slow rain over the next 10 days, it'll all work on top the ground. You'll look like a genius. You know, but that happens once every 10 years.

22:10 You know, it's no different than the farmers, you know, they just have certain tools that they have access to, certain tools that they don't. You just got to figure out, you know, how to make that work. I'm going to go to the sheet here, Grant. We've got Greg is asking a question here and this kind of goes with some of what we're talking about earlier.

22:30 They say our spring, you know, the spring mixes for food plots have the microgreen NPK, the elevated fungi and rhizobac extend. These are the inoculants that I was talking about. If my soil is compacted, do any of these materials help me? So in other words, does the biology that we're adding to the seeds, does it help with compaction?

22:52 And the answer there, Greg, is yes. But it's not just those inoculants. It's going to be those inoculants working in conjunction with the plants. The plants by themselves aren't that effective. The biology by themselves will not survive because the plants have to feed them with the liquid carbon that they're producing through photosynthesis. So it's the combination of the two that really makes it happen. And one of the best things that you can do to address compaction, particularly future compaction, is having your good soil structure. And then the way that soil gets structured is by these biological glues that these organisms exude as part of their life process. They exude these sticky substances called glomalin, particularly the mycorrhiza. And that really helps glue your soil together and it makes it less susceptible to compaction. And so my answer to compaction is well, go out there with a shovel and start digging. Now, your ground may be hard but if the roots are growing down through that hard stuff, don't come in with a ripper, don't come in with a disc because that you're not going to help yourself. You're just going to hurt yourself. But if you see your radishes or sorghum or rye and it's growing down and it's hitting the hard pan and then those roots just go sideways, well, then you've got a problem that you may need to get some sort of a tillage tool in there to address. Try to do something that, you know, will rip deep but have minimum disturbance on top. And then try to fix the problem and then figure out why that problem was caused in the first place and then try to

24:38 eliminate that so because otherwise you get into this habit of you're having to do that all the time. So Grant, I'm sure I mean, I don't know how you would know if your soils are compacted because from what I saw it's mostly rock anyway, which is compaction. So how do you look at compaction?

24:58 At my place, I really don't, Keith. I mean, you're right. Roots magically grow in between the little rock crevices. It's amazing. I was just again in Louisiana, Mississippi and I think we posted this if y'all are watching our social media but I was with a really good sized gentleman, big stout guy, Jory. And I couldn't get shovel ground, folks. I only weigh about 170 lb. Had Jory get on that shovel and I mean, it was like a brick. When we finally got down there and worked it around and it come out, it was like concrete actually. Just slick. Not a worm hole, not a beetle hole. I mean, just nothing.

25:32 Clearly had compaction and here's the cool thing. That's where he had disc last year. And I went over about 10 ft to where there was just pine trees or whatever and the shovel just sunk in. So remember that equipment is heavy and vibrating. That's a perfect compactor. So fewer trips across the field is a great way to reduce compaction and help your soils.

25:55 Yeah, it's you know, I mean, we talk about this all the time but it's just amazing that farmers will take a disc out there thinking they're helping the compaction but when you drive down the road and they're building roads, what are they using to prepare a roadbed? They're using a disc or a pond dam. Yeah, pond dam. You disc it because you're breaking down all that soil structure, you're compacting, taking out all the air spaces. It can't be both and I'm pretty sure the road guys know what they're doing, the pond builders.

26:28 So this kind of goes into what Tyler is asking here. Tyler from Louisiana says he owns a farm in Kansas. His question revolves around returning parts of a compacted cattle pasture into food plots. Very poor soil. Would you recommend tilling the ground first and then going to no-till after that? What steps would you take to improve soil aeration and quality? So we kind of talked about that a little bit.

26:51 I would not till it if the roots are already growing through what's there. If it's not, well then yeah, you probably need to do something in the beginning and then try to go to no-till but I think you're just going to have to go out there with a spade and spend a bunch of time digging and see what the roots are doing.

27:11 You Grant, you consult on lots of places and I'm sure you've seen some pretty poor things to start with. What percentage of the time would you say some mechanical intervention is needed to address compaction issues versus let's get the biology and the plants going and let it heal itself?

27:29 I probably err on using mechanical intervention less. And I'm a big believer in the power of plants. So I may plant specific species to help with that problem that I know are really good at busting up. I'm certainly going to have cereal rye that giant fibrous root system in there in that fall blend for sure. And I'm willing to be patient a year or two. I haven't seen many places that if you get a couple rotations in there, the plants aren't doing a pretty good job of making progress at healing that soil.

28:04 Yeah, I would agree. So spend some time out there. If you see roots growing sideways, you know, that and then that's an indication that you've got major issues. But other than that, you know, don't give up on what plants and biology can do. Hey, Mike is asking a good question here that I'm sure a lot of people wonder about. He doesn't have a crimper, Grant. So can he bush hog the winter food plot before planting his spring crop? Have you seen that be effective?

28:33 I have, Mike, but it needs to be late in that dough stage you're talking about or you know, if you mow your yard, weeds and the grass grow right back. So it's got to be where that plant's just before making viable seed and Mike, I think you said plant after but you want to spread that seed or however you're doing it before because you put that thick mulch down, it's going to have the seed have great difficulty getting to the soil. As Keith said, it's really important seed to have direct contact with the soil. So if you're going to mow, however you're planting, you probably want to do that ahead of time.

29:05 Yeah, for sure you'd want to get that seed out there ahead of time and when it comes to termination by mowing, it's the rules are different than with crimping. The more mature it is, the less likely it is going to be to grow back. So I would not start before you know, that so the ending of your crimp period probably should be the beginning of your mow period. And then you could do that all the way out to where that seed is already starting to get a little hard because you know, you're cutting it off and the more mature something is, the less likely it is going to be to grow back. And if your cover crop is already started to grow, your food plot is already started to grow, well, you can just lift your mower up a little bit. You can kind of adjust for that a little bit. So you've got a little bit more of a window of opportunity there.

29:56 But I would one thing I would caution on is make sure you have your mower adjusted so it's spreading your clippings fairly evenly because if you make great big piles, it's probably going to choke out whatever you just planted. So kind of make sure you've got that adjusted to where you're getting an even spread of you know that thatch otherwise you're just going to bury stuff.

30:20 Chris, our friend Chris here from South Carolina says 'If we're happy with soil temperatures being above 60°, can we plant green before the cereal rye hits the dough stage?' Chris, I'm going to beg you to hold off a little bit, okay? I don't want you having issues. So,

30:37 Chris wants to get out there with his tractor, Grant. He's ready to go. Chris wants to get that knocked down so he can see some turkeys out there. I think you probably better wait, Chris, till you're in the early dough stage and remember every day those plants are photosynthesizing, they're improving soil, those roots are going deeper in the soil and breaking hard pans and adding carbon. So, giving that a little bit more time I think is wise.

31:06 And for sure you could probably go a little bit before that but not so much that your seeds are going to be you know those plants are up and out of the ground for when you're going to crimp. Yeah, you just know, patience is hard for all of us but sometimes patience is definitely a virtue.

31:25 Jeff is asking on sandy soils in the Midwest, where did it go? Sorry, just moved on me. What's the fastest way you've seen to build organic matter without tillage? Well, certainly without tillage builds organic matter faster but how tolerant should we be of weeds when they emerge within a diverse summer blend? This is a great question because I promise everybody's going to have weeds whether you're planting a crop, corn, beans, it doesn't matter, food plots, pastures, you're going to have some weeds.

31:56 What's your theory on tolerance of weeds, Grant? Yeah, so first off, some weeds like ragweed or young ragweed is very palatable to deer, very nutritious. I'm not worried about little ragweed. If you're full of pigweed or something like that, I certainly don't want it going to seed and I don't want it outcompeting my crop. Those are a couple of thresholds for me.

32:20 So, a nasty weed like pigweed, mare's tail, I wouldn't want it to make seed and I don't want it outcompeting my crop. So, if there's and I'm just throwing a number out here, if there's 20% of a weed out there and 80% is really good looking food plot, I'm just not too worried about it. Long as I'm planting or taking some action before that weed makes a seed.

32:44 So, the food plots, especially a diverse food plot mix will do a really good job of suppressing weeds if it can get out to a head start. Yeah. And so, if you plant into a weedy patch, the cover crop's not going to rescue you from that. That's kind of a poor management decision. So, you need to start clean and whether that's tillage pass or herbicide pass, weeds are harder to roller crimp because they're at all different growth stages but you got to start clean if you want to end clean.

33:28 And even if you start clean, there's going to be some stuff out there. That's just kind of the nature of that beast. But we know that's a struggle. We hear that from people all the time. Grant, you hear that all the time. Colton Tony, who's our food plot guy, I know he's listening on here. Colton hears that all the time.

33:46 And we get asked all the time, Grant, is there herbicide options to go with some of these diverse mixes? Yeah. And the answer is maybe. Not great options. It's not like you know, we've got all these Roundup Ready type plants we're going to use. But why don't you talk just a little bit about some of the experiments that we're working on together this year?

34:09 Yeah, just to show people that we're always trying to think of new ways to help with management of weeds. Yeah, so my personal case for many years I've not used a herbicide and I've got a crabgrass issue. Colton and I think Keith were here last year. I know Colton and Zach were. You know, it's over that 20% threshold for sure in several plots and I don't like it and it made a big seed crop. So, Colton, Keith, Zach and I come up with a blend of some different legumes. They're all in the legume family which is rare for us to do to address this issue and we're planting at a pretty heavy rate, you know, outcompeting.

34:50 But because they're all legumes, we believe because some of these aren't straight up ag crops, there's not a lot of research on them that we can use clethodim, a grass specific herbicide for the grasses. That's pretty safe bet right there. Early on. You can't wait for the grass to get knee tall, right? These herbicides work best when that plant's probably what, 0 to 8 inches or less, Keith? You got to get out there early.

35:16 And then 2,4-DB. The B is butyrac. Two. If you just spray over that with 2,4-D, you're going to kill it, folks, but 2,4-DB and if so, if you got broadleaf weeds out there, you may want to mix in some 2,4-DB.

35:31 I'm going to be very transparent as always and I'll show you what we're doing this summer if we need it. We're going to plant pretty heavy. We're planting a code name. If you want to gamble with me, I'm telling you this is a gamble. If you want to gamble with me, it's not a gamble on whether it's going to grow. It's not a gamble if deer are going to eat it. That's not a gamble at all. It's going to produce a lot of tons, you know, average growing conditions, whatever. The gamble is the herbicide but you can call Colton up and ask him for Grant's.

36:02 We're kind of code naming this Grant's Extreme or maybe they're just making fun of me, who knows, but Grant's Extreme, I've asked Chris, we talked about it earlier, to plant a few acres of it and some other folks. Now, it's not a total experiment because I planted all these species before, not just in this particular blend. And last year, one of the main species in there we had in our little eighth acre hidey-hole food plots and you know, we manage for deer, folks. We got a lot of deer and even our little food plots maintained forage through a drought all year last year. I was extremely impressed. It kept a boot tall where in our bigger plots it might be near waist tall but in a little eighth acre food plot back in the hinterlands and nothing but timber all around it, we never ran out of forage which would not be true with beans or sunflowers or anything else. So, super excited about this. And that's on our website.

36:59 Yeah, that's mostly you're talking about the aeschynomene that the joint vetch is doing that. Yeah. But it's slow out of gate so we had to come up with the right species working as a team to get us going and suppress weeds and attract deer and feed deer till the aeschynomene kind of gets going which can be a month, folks. It's slow out of gate. Once it gets going, man, it is a steamroller.

37:22 And it's expensive. It just is. It's a hard plant to harvest, to collect the seeds. It's actually a native plant. But once you get it rolling, man, I'm impressed with it. And other researchers have figured this out too but I don't know of anyone trying this blend that we're working on and be able to offer food plotters a way to have really high quality food in a blend and have some herbicide options. So we're really excited about this.

37:50 And clethodim is relatively inexpensive. It might be also labeled as select. Clethodim is kind of the chemical name. There's all kinds of trade names for it. But just make sure it's the grass only killer and then the 2,4-DB which the legumes will grow through that and that will help take out some of the other broadleaves. So yeah. Definitely if you're not subscribed to Grant's channel, make sure you do that because you'll be giving us updates throughout the summer on how the Grant's Extreme. I'm sure we've got other code names we don't tell you about, Grant, but.

38:29 Uh hey, Will is asking a question here. He's establishing some new food plots in what was a closed canopy forest. He had a machine operator come in, you know, take out a bunch of that and the suggestion is to run a root rake through the new plot. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

38:46 You know, root rakes are attached to really heavy equipment again and they're vibrating so you might get a little soil compaction out of that. I think that trade-off is how bad are the roots and are you using a no-till drill? Then you got to get it cleaned up a little bit. Are you broadcasting? Man, as long as you're not tripping and falling. If you've seen my videos, I have plots here with oak stumps a foot tall all through them. And of course I'm never driving a tractor through there but we grow good crops and harvest deer in there. They're actually some of my favorite places. So, depending on how big you've opened up and your planting techniques you anticipate in the future, but if I'm broadcasting, I'm not using mechanical means, I don't I'm not going to waste my time on that. Yeah, or money cuz that's not going to be cheap to do either.

39:34 Let's see. John is in New Hampshire. His soil's thin, barely covers the rock ledge. He's currently in a drought which I just saw something where like 75% of the country is in some form of a drought. So, folks, if you're dry, you're not alone. There's a lot of dry places. So join us in praying for rain for all over. But anyway, he's asking, 'Are there recommendations for crop rotations that are drought hardy and will build soil on that ledge so it supports plant growth and help the soil hold water?'

40:09 As Keith has pointed out several times at my place, you're not sticking a soil probe very deep at my place. You will bend it on a rock literally. I'm not teasing, folks. So, that doesn't scare me. The quality of soil on top we can certainly improve. We've grown soil here. We think we're somewhere about a quarter inch a year. This is you know, but I know it's getting better by really detailed test, not just a soil test, but any test on our stuff. We are making big improvements on our soil quality by planting blends. So, if it's really drought, if you have sandy soil or something, this is extreme. I'm just talking about probably as drought hardy as anything we have. Don't you think, Keith, the aeschynomene is really drought hardy?

40:51 It is. And really the key that we've seen to moisture efficiency is diversity. And it makes sense because if you think about it, if you just go out there and plant soybeans by themselves or corn or anything in a monoculture, it's absolutely the most competitive environment you can put anything into because every plant and every neighbor plant has the same root depth, the same canopy height, the same water needs, the same nutrient needs all at the same time. And so you are forcing those plants to be incredibly competitive to get a limited resource, whether that's water or nutrients or to some extent sunlight. But when you have this diverse mix and now, you know, my bean plant has a sorghum plant next to a sunflower plant next to aeschynomene, you now we've got different root depths, different canopy heights, different water needs, different nutrient needs. And really what you see happening then is those plants go from being super competitive to being collaborative and cooperative, and they will share nutrients, and they share water, especially when they're highly colonized with biology cuz the biology is what helps the plants communicate and share. And there's this complicated thing called quorum sensing, which I wish I understood better. But essentially, God has built intelligence into these systems. And when you have the right levels of diversity, that system starts working as one big superorganism where all of the plants and the biology tend to cooperate for the mutual good of the system instead of every plant for itself. And you know, that's God's design. And it's no different than how he created us. You know, people are that way. You know, if you are with people who are just like you, you may think that's going to be a good thing, but I promise you you would not like that because it will be super competitive, and you're going to get mad, and you're going to start fighting each other for resources. But if you've got people with different skill sets,

49:06 Farming practices like tillage and commercial fertilizers, if they don't have any of the microorganisms in the soil, correct? So one thing that we food plot farmers have a huge advantage on: we're trying to attract deer to an area. And one of the big trends in commercial ag or production ag is putting cattle out there so they urinate, defecate, and salivate on the land, and they're adding microbes and nutrients while they're doing that. So there's usually no shortage of deer at sometime in the year in the food plot or maybe all year long.

49:38 If I was planting a fall plot, I would not till. Tillage is one of the most harmful things you can do to soil. Again, sometimes it's a tool in your bag, but if you can avoid tillage, that's a really good thing. And just think about those roots. That fall crop will hold on a long time in the spring or summer, probably May or June depending on where you are, when it gets fully mature. And those roots are growing, and as they start decomposing and then you do plant that new crop two and a half to three months later, they're following those root channels down. And there's all that organic matter there. And one pass of a disc really takes away a lot of organic matter.

50:13 You're going to lose water, right? Keith Clouse used to tell the story about a farmer—I'm going to butcher it—but you know, how much rain did you get? I got it all. When you disc, you're not getting all the rain, right? It's going to crust over, some's going to run off. If you leave that fall crop standing, rain hits it, it's just going right down the soil like a sponge. And some of that will be there for that fall crop. So I would not disc unless I had to.

50:37 The most valuable thing in your soil is the carbon. And when we can build that carbon in the form of organic matter, that's where we really start to see the system work. Carbon is the food source for your biology. It's the energy. That's the stored energy in your soil—the carbon. And the way you get carbon dioxide, which goes back to the atmosphere, is when you are stirring all the carbon in your soil up, exposing it to the oxygen in the air, and you're making CO2. And so the more you till, the more CO2 you're going to release to the atmosphere, and the less carbon you're going to have in your soil.

51:21 Conventional agriculture has been in that tailspin for many, many years now, and we've lost anywhere from 50 to 75% of all the carbon out of our soil—it's now in the atmosphere—and we need to get it back in the soil if we're going to have any kind of productivity. So only use tillage as a tool of last resort, I think.

51:44 Chris is asking another question here, and I think this is a good question that I've had. I see other questions here too. Going back to roller crimping, if you wait too long or even if he's mowing and that seed on that cereal rye in particular gets too mature and it makes viable seed—you know, that seed gets hard—if he crimps or mows too late, what's the worst thing that can happen? Will he get more cereal rye? Is that a bad thing? Does that help him break up some of that red clay, build that soil? What's your thoughts on that, Grant?

52:19 I haven't ever seen it really bad, but I have seen it in my own place. You get some volunteer if, you know, maybe it rains too much getting in the field or whatever it is, and it gets too mature. I've never seen it just outcompete everything out there. Maybe Keith has in all his travels. So that's probably the worst gamble. You got a living plant that again is photosynthesizing, pumping carbon in the soil. It's not a time of year that deer like those grass species. So it may be outcompeting the more preferred food plot plants you planted. That's probably the biggest negative, don't you think, Keith?

52:53 Yeah, and I don't even think the competition—you won't see that until later because that rye is not going to come up during the heat of the summer for the most part. If it's laying on top the soil, you're going to lose, especially in an area where you've got good biology, you've got turkeys, you've got birds, you've got mice, you've got all kinds of rodents out there. A lot of that's going to get eaten. Some of it obviously will come back the next year. So no, I don't think that that's a big issue. It could be if you didn't have a lot of that being eaten by your critters and your varmints and birds, but in most of these situations, these are pretty active habitat areas, and so yeah, that becomes a food source.

53:42 Okay, Robert's got a good question here. Grant, this is one we talk about all the time. He says he's bought some green cover seed, best germination he's ever had, but shipping costs were pretty high. What can we do to help reduce the cost of shipping?

54:00 I'll answer that one. Drive to Nebraska? We'd love to have you come up, Robert. Yeah, you know, that is just the nature of the beast with, and I can tell you this as, you know, diesel prices go up and we all know what's happened at the pump, that is going to affect everything, shipping included. The best thing I can tell you, Robert, is what we have seen: when we can get to shipping things on a pallet instead of in boxes, shipping via UPS boxes is the worst option. You know, now it's the only option sometimes if you're only getting a bag or two, but if you can find some people in your neighborhood or even, you know, within a 30 to 40 mile radius, you know, find other hunting guys that are looking at doing this, you can still order separately as long as we know it. We can put all that together on one pallet. And if we can ship 500 pounds on a pallet, the shipping cost probably drops in half versus shipping 200 pounds to two different places.

55:11 The more seed that we can ship to one place, the cheaper it gets. And I know that's hard. You have to go out and you have to talk to people, you have to meet people. I know a lot of us are independent and don't necessarily like that.

55:25 But it's just simply a volume game. And the more we can ship to one place, the cheaper it will get, the more that shipping gets discounted off.

55:35 I know Grant, in your area, you guys got a little hunting cooperative, and so we can ship quite a bit of seed to one location, and then everybody comes in and picks it up and probably has a great time swapping stories and telling lies and all kinds of other things.

55:50 No lies. No lies.

55:53 Colton could tell you, but I know already there's five or six of my buddies here locally that are just piggybacking my order. Since we have a nice driveway we get in, and they just, you know, it'll lay in, and then I'll call them or Colton will call them and say, 'Hey, it's at Grant's place.' And you know, just come pick it up. And the other thing, I know Colton's helped a lot of people with, Keith, is get your summer and fall blend together.

56:15 You know you're going to buy it anyway, so and just store that seed in a cool dry place, it'll be fine over those two or three months. And that's a great way to get your weight up and get that price way down on shipping.

56:25 Yep. Yep. So, doing those two things that I say, if we can if we can move up to that pallet type level, we can really we can really start doing some good things.

56:36 We're about up against our time, Grant. Are you opposed to going another maybe 10 minutes or so, a little bonus time here?

56:44 I'm right here with you, buddy. All right, let's keep going then.

56:50 Man, there's a lot of good questions.

56:57 I'm trying to find ones that I kind of see a theme here. So, Matt's asking his farm was used for hay and hasn't been cut in a couple of years, so kind of an inactive growing deal. Does he need to mow that so it can reach the dough stage, then drill and crimp, or go ahead and just drill into what's brown and standing? And I'm not exactly sure what type of hay is out there.

57:24 I'll take a first shot at this one. If it's if it was perennial type hay, you know, like brome or bahiagrass or fescue, you're really going to struggle to try to get any kind of annuals to grow out there at all because, you know, when it comes to competition, he who has the deepest roots always wins. And that's always going to be the perennial. So, if you've got a perennial hay stand out there, it's going to be really hard for you to get some annuals established. So, you're going to have to get rid of the perennial somehow, either chemically or mechanically. And then once you have done that, and it doesn't have to be 100%, but you got to really get that knocked back or you'll never have success getting your annuals to go.

58:06 How have you seen people handle that situation, Grant? Yeah, 100%. I would be a little bolder. You're probably most likely going to need to use a herbicide application, not every year, but you got to you got to get those perennial grass species under control. Man, they're tough. They're weed species, basically. So, get those under control, drill through it. Some people we work with a lot of people that have fescue, maybe they bought some land or grandma gave permission to make food plot, whatever, and we use a little bit earlier now, starting to green up, but prescribed fire to get all the duff out of the way. And then that fescue or brome will bolt, and then you won't have anything keeping the herbicide from getting to the plants you want to impact.

58:49 And then apply good herbicide on there, and you're going to get a really good kill like that. If you've got 6 in of mulch and a little bit of green sticking up here and there, you're not going to get a real good kill with that herbicide pass. So, make sure you're getting good herbicide to plant leaf, not so and I wouldn't mow because most herbicides that you would use in that scenario work on leaf surface area. If you mow it and you've just got a little stem sticking up, you're not going to get as good a kill cuz you're not getting as much penetration.

59:21 Yeah, and just remember, you know, if you want to finish clean, you got to start clean. If and if you want these new plants to get established, you can't have a ton of competition out there, whether it's from a bunch of weeds or already established perennials. They're they're just not designed that way.

59:38 David is asking, can can he plant the brassica plus blend? So, just a lot of brassicas, I think there's a little clover in there. Can that be planted right into the summer release, you know, kind of in that August type time frame? Or and I'm I'm assuming he's asking, can that be planted into that without terminating the summer release?

1:00:00 Yeah, David, that kind of depends on how much browse pressure or competition there's been, if there's any weed pressure. Like Keith just said, you've got to think of that seed as a baby baby plant. And it just can't compete well. So, kind of my rule of thumb is if you're walking through there and you see your boots at least half the time, there's a chance that might work. If you're not seeing your boots much, there's too much competition. And you're going to have to, you know, use a herbicide. If those brassicas are really mature, you might be able to mow them off.

1:00:29 Depending on a lot of issues there, drought conditions, whatever. But, start clean, finish clean. That's the that's the theme of the night, Keith. I like that.

1:00:40 I like that. Tim is in the Piedmont in North Carolina. He says he's he's used green cover with the release process spring and fall for the last 4 years. He's had great success healing.

1:00:49 The soil. He doesn't use any inputs now, but he has a problem with ryegrass. Ryegrass can be a booger, kind of like your crabgrass. Any suggestions? I would assume maybe the new experimental type thing that we talked about, hitting that ryegrass with some clethodim, maybe?

1:01:09 I think that'd be a great option to use the extreme we're calling it. And that way you can apply a coat of clethodim over there and set that back. Ryegrass, it should have been banned for food plot purposes. It'll make a seed at 2 in tall, I swear, if you let it go. So there's probably a big seed base there. But getting on top of it one good growing season will really help you in future years.

1:01:37 Yeah, it's kind of the cool-season equivalent of the crabgrass because it's the same. Well, and there's people that, you know, the cattle guys, crabgrass ryegrass can be really valuable tools for grazing cattle on. But they do have a tendency to just want to take over. And so you have to be able to control them. If it's just a part of the mix, it's okay. But too often, they're because they're such prolific seed producers, they'll just eventually take over. And ryegrass is on the low end of palatability for whitetail deer. It's not a favorite plant species.

1:02:16 Yeah. I see some other ryegrass questions in here. So let's finish up with this. Somebody submitted a question here. What are some really cool success stories and what are some wild disasters that people should avoid? And I'm sure you've seen your share of both when it comes to food plotting. So maybe just, you know, as we kind of close here and I apologize, there's a ton of questions we didn't get to. A lot of them had some similar themes to things we did talk about. I apologize if we didn't get to your specific question. Hopefully we did discuss something similar to that. But I do like this question. You know, maybe first of all, what are some disasters that you have seen happen to people and how can those be avoided? And then, what are some of the cool success stories that you can just encourage us with as we kind of close this down for the evening?

1:03:12 Yeah. So if maybe we can have people put a comment, do it again, or like, or something like that if they want more of this. Maybe Keith and I, we're both busy, but could circle back in a month or so if there's enough call for that.

1:03:25 Yeah, for sure. I think the disasters short of just a wicked drought that no one could solve or flood or those are things none of us can manage around. Short of that, when you don't play by the rules, right? You get excited and plant early because it's warm. And then your seeds are coming up and there's a coat of ice or 4 in of snow on them. That could be avoided, folks. You got to most years, you got to wait for the right time. You can't get excited and plant too early in the fall. These are cool-season plants. They're not built for July heat or that amount of sunshine. So staying in the guardrails, if you will, talk to Colten or I or whoever and stay in the guardrails for your latitude and have realistic expectations. You can't plant a half-acre food plot in the middle of 5 acres of pine trees. They're going to mow it to the ground. So those are some disasters. Too little food for too many mouths. That's going to end up a weedy mess, right? The deer are going to eat the good and favor the weeds. Don't plant too late in the fall. You can't wait till the snow's flying and say, 'Well, I want a food plot for late season.' You have to have a certain amount of heat units, sunshine days for that plant to get up, get established, and grow. So I would say disasters are when people didn't play by the general guidelines. Short of again, a flood or a snow in July or something like that.

1:04:59 Yeah. And I want to go back to something you said earlier too, Grant. Sometimes people may think they have a disaster, but if you don't have that exclusion cage out there, you don't really know if the plants didn't grow because of some environmental condition or if you just didn't see the deer out there mowing it down all the time.

1:05:19 Yeah. Or you're weedy or you're weedy because the deer eating up all the good and letting the weeds grow. If I had one wish for all food plot farmers, it would not be that everyone test their soil. It would not even be that everyone no-till drill. It would be that everyone use a utilization cage because it's just a very inexpensive, great indicator of what's going on. And you can diagnose or send us a picture and we can say, 'Oh, man, maybe we need to do X, Y, Z.' But I have in my little food plots, my bigger feeding food plots, I have a utilization cage in every food plot, folks. That's how much I believe in them. And they're cheap, they're easy. They don't have to be fancy. You can make them out of about anything. Just tie them down good so the deer don't knock them over to get in there to eat what looks good.

1:06:08 Yeah. Quick recipe, I like 12 ft of wire. That'd give you about a 3-ft plus cylinder. Adult deer have about 11-in tongue. When they're hungry, they'll reach through those webs and pull that plant to them. I've seen where in the very center of a 2-ft utilization cage, there's one plant tall and it's just a cone going down. So and don't make it 3 ft. And yeah, don't make it out galvanized wire. That's going to leach out a lot of zinc. And you're wondering why the plants inside the cage are actually shorter than outside. I've seen that a couple of times. Chicken wire, heavily galvanized wire is not a good option.

1:06:45 Good point. I never thought about that. Yeah, zinc toxicity. Yeah. Little zinc to too much zinc is.

1:06:55 So how about some good success stories? Get us off, Grant, with some encouragement.

1:07:02 I think I just shared a couple in the last day or two with Keith, Colten, and Zach. We love when people email us and send us pictures, maybe their kid or someone tagged a nice buck. But just showing us that growth. And I love when people don't just show us a good food plot, but we heard some comments tonight, they're seeing a change in the soil. That's really what it's all about. We're restoring creation.

1:07:26 And we're getting back to what the creator designed. And when you see that soil go from like at Chris Berry's place from hard red and not an earthworm to be found. And Chris, I've got this wrong, I'm sure, but I remember early spring, you told me you pulled up X clumps of cereal rye something and there was an earthworm in every one. And that's so rewarding. I do that at my place, too.

1:07:51 Fantastic. I know Daniel gets on to me, 'You're pulling up all the food out there.' I mean, I just it's an addiction. You start pulling it up. 'Hey, there's three worms in this one. Hey, there's two worms in this one.'

1:08:00 So those success stories and success to me is when people feel good about it. They're seeing deer, maybe they harvested a deer. They're seeing a change in their soil. It brings it back. And we all know that seeds are like the perfect illustration of Christ, right? It looks like it would come from a living plant that's so miraculous. It looks dead, it rises again, there's new hope.

1:08:27 I can't really think of a better lesson than farming. And that's probably why Christ used that illustration so much when he was teaching about the love of our father.

1:08:40 Boy, that is for sure. So many agricultural examples because that's what the culture was at the time, but also because, yeah, it's just a great demonstration of creation. And so many parables, you know, involve plants and agricultural things. So what a great way to end, especially as we go into this resurrection weekend to celebrate what Christ did on the cross for us. We are getting, Grant, we're getting a lot of encouragement in the chat here, people wanting to do it again. And somebody did ask about the recording being posted.

1:09:13 Yes, we will post this to our YouTube channel. And we're going to try to get the video over, Grant, to you and you guys can make it available on your social media channels, as well. So if you have a buddy that didn't get to see this, they can come watch it. And we will we'll put our heads together and see if we can schedule something else here. Maybe in 7-8 weeks or something. Maybe by that time we'll even have some pictures we can show of some food plots starting to grow. Maybe even people can send some pictures ahead of time if they want to. So we'll figure that out.

1:09:52 This I've had a good time. I hope you did too, Grant. Always love chatting with you and love to see the questions. Can definitely tell that the questions now are different than they were, I think, a few years ago when we started because people are maturing in their understanding of the system and I'm very encouraged by that.

1:10:16 And there are, to your point, so many success stories out there and they want to share. That's the one great thing about the system or Ginny Vagt release process, whatever you want to call it. There's no secret, right? And Keith, I don't want to take from Keith, but he has this great webinar y'all can find online called Bio Graces. The amount of sun I get doesn't take away from the amount of sun Keith gets or the amount of rain I get doesn't take away from Keith. So there's no secrets here. There's nothing to hide. There's no competition. We just want to help everyone and the people doing this want to help everyone. So it's just a great family to be a part of and maybe people can start sending in questions and pictures along the way. I don't know, Sophie, if there's a way to track that and look forward to doing this again.

1:11:04 And the people who are doing this are great people and so that's why I encourage you to go seek them out and then get together, not just to share shipping on the seed. I mean that's great, but that's probably one of the smallest benefits you'll get from those relationships. You know, you'll pick up tips on how to manage things and how to just manage your property. Plus it's just great fellowship. So don't be afraid to go out there and look for other like-minded people even if you have to drive 40-50 miles to find them. They're out there.

1:11:40 I would drive that much to learn a tip that made my food plots better, Keith.

1:11:44 Yeah, for sure. For sure. You drove all the way up to Nebraska once.

1:11:50 Okay, well hey, thanks everybody. It's been a ton of fun. We will get this posted out to our YouTube channel. We'll get it over to Grant and Danielle. They'll get it out there as well and we will definitely let everybody know. Everybody that had signed up for this will definitely be on the list for next time we do one of these. Plus hopefully we have 200 people instead of just 100. So thank you everybody. Have a blessed resurrection week ahead.

1:12:20 Like Grant says, well you close this out with the way you always do your episodes. I love that. Hey, I want everyone truly to enjoy creation, but just don't go hunting. Take some time to really think and apply the creator's will to your life. Seek it out and apply it to your lives daily. Thanks for watching everyone.

1:12:40 Yeah, amen. Amen. And just before people log off here, Sophie did just post in the chat. If you aren't a member of the food plot Facebook group, we would encourage you to join that. You can ask additional questions there and maybe you'll find that neighbor somewhere that you can learn from, share with, share some shipping and things like that. So love to see everybody here and we'll see you next time. Thank you, Grant.